Been meaning to do this video for a while. How a beginner should buy their very first ukulele!
( DIRECT LINK )
Showing posts with label buying. Show all posts
Showing posts with label buying. Show all posts
9 Mar 2014
5 May 2012
5 May 2012T08:34
Say hello to the homepage for my ukulele books on Amazon
All three books, in both Kindle and paperback are available on Amazon.com HERE.
They are also on Amazon UK, Barnes and Noble, Smashwords and many other places including the iTunes store. And remember, the second book in ebook format is currently half price!
Hope they help you out!
- Posted using BlogPress
Read More »
My Amazon ukulele handbook homepage
Say hello to the homepage for my ukulele books on Amazon
All three books, in both Kindle and paperback are available on Amazon.com HERE.
They are also on Amazon UK, Barnes and Noble, Smashwords and many other places including the iTunes store. And remember, the second book in ebook format is currently half price!
Hope they help you out!
- Posted using BlogPress
9 Apr 2012
9 Apr 2012T10:46
In the current economic climate, it is of course clear that many people are finding times tougher on the pocket and generally being more careful with how they spend. So can you get a saving going down the used ukulele route? Well you certainly can, but be aware of the pitfalls. Below I discuss the three main options you can consider. In respect of all of them, in the vast majority of cases you can find some great instruments, but as always - BUYER BEWARE!!
BUYING PRIVATELY
That is to say, buying direct from the seller of an instrument through direct contact with them. Perhaps they posted an advert in the local newspaper, on Craigslist, or on a forum, but you have found yourself a listing for a ukulele that looks like a good deal.
As I say to anyone buying a brand new instrument, the same applies here - do your level best to actually see the instrument before you part with any cash. Look it over extremely carefully and, of course, play it! Firstly, with an instrument of any age that is used (though particularly with vintage gear) you want to be looking for damage, or old damage that has been repaired. Go over the whole of the body, top, back and sides for signs of cracks or dings. Little dings are normal and we all get them on our instruments. If it is just a few dings which are cosmetic, it's then up to you as to how you negotiate that into the price you are willing to pay. But keep an eye out for more serious damage - splits, gaps, signs that the bridge has been re glued in place, or obvious amounts of filler on a previous split. This is a tough area to be absolutely sure on as a very well fixed repair by a skilled luthier is something to behold - a well repaired instrument will give you no worries whatsoever, but a bad repair - different story. Ask the seller about the history - if you find some damage, ask about it, who repaired it and how. If they tell you they re-glued the bridge themselves with super glue after they dropped it down the stairs, obviously, move on!
Look inside the body for more signs of damage or repair that may not have been so well hidden as on the outside too! Get a torch in there if you have to!
Move on to the neck. Hold the uke at the headstock and look down the neck to the bridge. Is it straight, and can you see all of the fret tops? Are the fret tops set well, and in the case of old instruments are they overly worn? On very old instruments, wear to the fingerboard is to be expected, and so long as every fret works cleanly with every string (and, I mean, check this with a tuner!) then you will be ok. Flip the neck over and examine the back, particularly around the heel, and where the neck joins the headstock - any signs of a break that has been re-glued? Again, a good repair is nothing to worry about, but ask.
Are all the tuners ok, do they work, do any of them look replaced, or are they splitting?
So, aside from looking for damage - how does the ukulele play? Is the action playable? Bear in mind that with very old instruments, all those years of tension means that the neck will naturally have started to raise. Over the years, this raises action, and then then can be adjusted by dropping the saddle a little. How much saddle is left on the instrument? If you have a very old uke in your hands and the saddle is only just protruding above the bridge mounting, it's clearly been adjusted about as low as it can now go. The only next step is to have the neck professionally re-set. Get out your clip on tuner, and check the tuning at the nut, and to confirm that the notes are the same at the 12th fret. Go further, check various other fret positions - do they all fret cleanly? Most of all, how does it sound and feel to you - only you can answer that question.
Of course, the above assumes that you are able to see the instrument, but I appreciate many of you need to rely on having a uke shipped - this is where you need to be much more careful. I would want to see many many photographs of the ukulele if I was spending some serious money. Perhaps even ask for a sound sample!. Ask the history - be a nuisance. Bear in mind that there are scam artists out there - on the good ukulele forums such as Ukulele Underground, they have a rule in their marketplace that any photos of the uke in question must include a piece of paper in the shot with the date written on it and the name of the forum member. This stops people just trying it on with stock photos they have grabbed from ebay and trying to pass the uke off as their own.
If you are having a ukulele shipped, try to pay with PayPal (its safe) and ensure the uke is sent insured, well packaged, and ideally in a case.
And remember - if it seems to good to be true, it probably is.
BUYING FROM A STORE
Your safer option (though still with some pitfalls) is buying through a store who deal with used or vintage ukuleles. My advice above applies here too - if you can actually get to the store to try the instrument out, I would urge you to do so.
If you can't do that - check the provenance of the store - who are they? Ask on the forums if anyone else has used them to ensure they are not a fly by night operation. There are obvious well known names out there such as Elderly who stock used gear, and with those people you should be fine. Again, ask for as many photographs as you can and for any details of damage or repair and how it was fixed. Good dealers will probably know much of the history on newer instruments, particularly at the higher end (and may have fixed themselves), but bear in mind on very old vintage gear it would be unreasonable to expect the dealer to know much about the full history. The comments above about shipping and insurance apply here equally - don't take the risk!
One other sort of store I should mention here is an potential interesting source for a uke - the antique shop or flea market. Even at car boot / garage sales I have walked through you occasionally see instruments. In these cases, buying is a total minefield, and if you are prepared to take a chance then go for it. Remember though, it is a real chance. The sellers may have simply picked up the instrument from a house clearance, and are unlikely to know much about the instrument. It may have no strings meaning you can't really check how it plays either. Look it over very carefully, and Buyer Beware!
THE HALFWAY HOUSE - EBAY
I couldn't write this post without a mention of what must be the biggest marketplace for used gear in the world - Ebay. I have both bought used instruments from Ebay, and sold some of mine also. I call it a halfway house because whilst it is, in the main (shop sellers excluded) a private marketplace, Ebay provides some more of the security buying from a well known shop brings.
This is a very popular choice for those wanting to buy an instrument for a better price, and the listings are full of ukuleles for sale. The vast majority seem to be the bottom end ukes, as sellers try to jump on the bandwagon, but hidden within the noise are a range of very nice ukes too. Sadly, the ukulele boom is working against those wanting to buy used for two reasons. First, if the ukulele is a decent one, you can expect to have a lot of bidding competition. Secondly some dealers are looking to cash in on the boom, and are setting reserves or buy it now prices which are, in my opinion, unrealistic. As with anything on ebay, do your research, set yourself a limit and don't be tempted to go over it! There are more fish in the sea!
Check the feedback of the seller and the quality of the listing. Someone who cares about the instrument will go into lots of detail about the history, any damage, and provide lots of good photographs. Beware the listing that is simply a one line with a blurry photograph. Sure, it may be a bargain in disguise from a seller who doesn't know any better, but do you want to take the chance.
Paying with PayPal will again provide you with an extra layer of protection, and ensure that the uke is well packed, ideally in a case, and insured. Even better, if you can pick it up - do so. If you arrive and the ukulele is clearly not in the condition it was described as, walk away.
So in summary, buying used can be thrilling and fun, and there are certainly some bargains to be had out there. Like anything though, there are chancers and scammers too, so be careful and trust your instincts.
And finally - what about buying an instrument that is listed as damaged? That may sound crazy, but it depends what it is. If I saw a 1960's Kamaka with a busted bridge or split headstock for the right price I would certainly consider buying it. That is to say, if I worked out the rough cost of getting a good luthier repair, added it to the price of the instrument in it's damaged state - then why not?
Happy search
Read More »
Buying A Used Ukulele
It recently struck me that I haven't provided any beginners advice to a very popular way of buying a uke - going down the used or vintage route.
In the current economic climate, it is of course clear that many people are finding times tougher on the pocket and generally being more careful with how they spend. So can you get a saving going down the used ukulele route? Well you certainly can, but be aware of the pitfalls. Below I discuss the three main options you can consider. In respect of all of them, in the vast majority of cases you can find some great instruments, but as always - BUYER BEWARE!!
BUYING PRIVATELY
That is to say, buying direct from the seller of an instrument through direct contact with them. Perhaps they posted an advert in the local newspaper, on Craigslist, or on a forum, but you have found yourself a listing for a ukulele that looks like a good deal.
As I say to anyone buying a brand new instrument, the same applies here - do your level best to actually see the instrument before you part with any cash. Look it over extremely carefully and, of course, play it! Firstly, with an instrument of any age that is used (though particularly with vintage gear) you want to be looking for damage, or old damage that has been repaired. Go over the whole of the body, top, back and sides for signs of cracks or dings. Little dings are normal and we all get them on our instruments. If it is just a few dings which are cosmetic, it's then up to you as to how you negotiate that into the price you are willing to pay. But keep an eye out for more serious damage - splits, gaps, signs that the bridge has been re glued in place, or obvious amounts of filler on a previous split. This is a tough area to be absolutely sure on as a very well fixed repair by a skilled luthier is something to behold - a well repaired instrument will give you no worries whatsoever, but a bad repair - different story. Ask the seller about the history - if you find some damage, ask about it, who repaired it and how. If they tell you they re-glued the bridge themselves with super glue after they dropped it down the stairs, obviously, move on!
Look inside the body for more signs of damage or repair that may not have been so well hidden as on the outside too! Get a torch in there if you have to!
Move on to the neck. Hold the uke at the headstock and look down the neck to the bridge. Is it straight, and can you see all of the fret tops? Are the fret tops set well, and in the case of old instruments are they overly worn? On very old instruments, wear to the fingerboard is to be expected, and so long as every fret works cleanly with every string (and, I mean, check this with a tuner!) then you will be ok. Flip the neck over and examine the back, particularly around the heel, and where the neck joins the headstock - any signs of a break that has been re-glued? Again, a good repair is nothing to worry about, but ask.
Are all the tuners ok, do they work, do any of them look replaced, or are they splitting?
So, aside from looking for damage - how does the ukulele play? Is the action playable? Bear in mind that with very old instruments, all those years of tension means that the neck will naturally have started to raise. Over the years, this raises action, and then then can be adjusted by dropping the saddle a little. How much saddle is left on the instrument? If you have a very old uke in your hands and the saddle is only just protruding above the bridge mounting, it's clearly been adjusted about as low as it can now go. The only next step is to have the neck professionally re-set. Get out your clip on tuner, and check the tuning at the nut, and to confirm that the notes are the same at the 12th fret. Go further, check various other fret positions - do they all fret cleanly? Most of all, how does it sound and feel to you - only you can answer that question.
Of course, the above assumes that you are able to see the instrument, but I appreciate many of you need to rely on having a uke shipped - this is where you need to be much more careful. I would want to see many many photographs of the ukulele if I was spending some serious money. Perhaps even ask for a sound sample!. Ask the history - be a nuisance. Bear in mind that there are scam artists out there - on the good ukulele forums such as Ukulele Underground, they have a rule in their marketplace that any photos of the uke in question must include a piece of paper in the shot with the date written on it and the name of the forum member. This stops people just trying it on with stock photos they have grabbed from ebay and trying to pass the uke off as their own.
If you are having a ukulele shipped, try to pay with PayPal (its safe) and ensure the uke is sent insured, well packaged, and ideally in a case.
And remember - if it seems to good to be true, it probably is.
BUYING FROM A STORE
Your safer option (though still with some pitfalls) is buying through a store who deal with used or vintage ukuleles. My advice above applies here too - if you can actually get to the store to try the instrument out, I would urge you to do so.
If you can't do that - check the provenance of the store - who are they? Ask on the forums if anyone else has used them to ensure they are not a fly by night operation. There are obvious well known names out there such as Elderly who stock used gear, and with those people you should be fine. Again, ask for as many photographs as you can and for any details of damage or repair and how it was fixed. Good dealers will probably know much of the history on newer instruments, particularly at the higher end (and may have fixed themselves), but bear in mind on very old vintage gear it would be unreasonable to expect the dealer to know much about the full history. The comments above about shipping and insurance apply here equally - don't take the risk!
One other sort of store I should mention here is an potential interesting source for a uke - the antique shop or flea market. Even at car boot / garage sales I have walked through you occasionally see instruments. In these cases, buying is a total minefield, and if you are prepared to take a chance then go for it. Remember though, it is a real chance. The sellers may have simply picked up the instrument from a house clearance, and are unlikely to know much about the instrument. It may have no strings meaning you can't really check how it plays either. Look it over very carefully, and Buyer Beware!
THE HALFWAY HOUSE - EBAY
I couldn't write this post without a mention of what must be the biggest marketplace for used gear in the world - Ebay. I have both bought used instruments from Ebay, and sold some of mine also. I call it a halfway house because whilst it is, in the main (shop sellers excluded) a private marketplace, Ebay provides some more of the security buying from a well known shop brings.
This is a very popular choice for those wanting to buy an instrument for a better price, and the listings are full of ukuleles for sale. The vast majority seem to be the bottom end ukes, as sellers try to jump on the bandwagon, but hidden within the noise are a range of very nice ukes too. Sadly, the ukulele boom is working against those wanting to buy used for two reasons. First, if the ukulele is a decent one, you can expect to have a lot of bidding competition. Secondly some dealers are looking to cash in on the boom, and are setting reserves or buy it now prices which are, in my opinion, unrealistic. As with anything on ebay, do your research, set yourself a limit and don't be tempted to go over it! There are more fish in the sea!
Check the feedback of the seller and the quality of the listing. Someone who cares about the instrument will go into lots of detail about the history, any damage, and provide lots of good photographs. Beware the listing that is simply a one line with a blurry photograph. Sure, it may be a bargain in disguise from a seller who doesn't know any better, but do you want to take the chance.
Paying with PayPal will again provide you with an extra layer of protection, and ensure that the uke is well packed, ideally in a case, and insured. Even better, if you can pick it up - do so. If you arrive and the ukulele is clearly not in the condition it was described as, walk away.
So in summary, buying used can be thrilling and fun, and there are certainly some bargains to be had out there. Like anything though, there are chancers and scammers too, so be careful and trust your instincts.
And finally - what about buying an instrument that is listed as damaged? That may sound crazy, but it depends what it is. If I saw a 1960's Kamaka with a busted bridge or split headstock for the right price I would certainly consider buying it. That is to say, if I worked out the rough cost of getting a good luthier repair, added it to the price of the instrument in it's damaged state - then why not?
Happy search
16 Feb 2012
16 Feb 2012T20:52
Firstly, like most things in the modern age, you can buy pretty much anything you like online. That means convenience and in many cases a price reduction. I can't argue with that. In addition, as we are in a ukulele boom, that means lots and lots of cheap instruments flooding the market from the Far East - THAT I have more concern with.
I know that at the present time, money is tight for many people, and naturally you (and I) will want to grab the very best bargain that they can. When buying a musical instrument though, I would urge some caution unless you know what you are doing or the risks.
At the cheaper end of the ukulele range, you are going to find a whole host of instruments that have been put together pretty shoddily. That isn't to say there are not some gems amongst them, or ukes that can be rescued, but generally speaking the majority will require a once over. So, you are sat at your PC without a music store nearby and you search around for the absolute cheapest uke you can find and click buy. When it arrives, unless you are extremely lucky you will find a uke that needs attention, perhaps a high action (or an action so low it buzzes) with cheap strings and perhaps some more serious issues. If that happens it means you bought from a box shipper like Amazon who simply take your order off the shelf unopened and ship it to you, or you bought from a terrible dealer. With a bit of digging around you CAN do better.
I would say at the outset to any new player - if you have the opportunity to buy your first uke from a real shop (i.e. a shop you can walk through the door to and have a play before you buy) then that is without a doubt the surest way you will avoid tears. Have a strum and look over every single inch of the instrument. Compare it to others in your price range and ask for advice. How do they sound to your ears? Which feels better? Spend some time with them. If you find one you like - great - now ask the salesman to give it a professional once over to check the intonation and the action. If he refuses, I'd avoid the shop as that is really poor service - its a quick job for an experienced tech and he should be happy you asked and to check. You might also see if he stocks better quality strings and ask pretty please if he will fit those too. By going that route you are likely to get some good results.
But back to the real world. Many of us don't live in cities with a music shop on every corner, and you may be finding travelling expensive so its natural to rely on the internet - I know I do. This is fine too though, so long as you try to avoid the faceless dealers who are not really instrument people, just warehouses selling boxes.
Most good music shops in your country will have their own website, or at the very least you can telephone them. Do you research beforehand and settle on a few ukes you like and start calling them. Don't just click the BUY button, actually call them and talk to them. Ask them for their opinion on your choice and listen to their views. If they are unhelpful, reject them. If you like what they say, make sure you ask them to give the uke a quick once over to check the same things as above, intonation and action before shipping. You might also want them to upgrade the strings, and Aquila strings are the obvious choice for the beginner with a cheap uke. Expect to pay for those strings (of course) but they should be happy to fit them in my opinion. Again, any store who says 'no' to a check on setup should be avoided. I've bought many this way, and you get to know the shops that give a damn and those that don't..
That isn't to say you shouldn't buy blind - either from that big wholesaler, or from sites like ebay where the seller can't warrant what they are offering - just make sure you ONLY do that if you know what you MAY be letting yourself into, and have people (like me!!) to turn to for advice if it arrives with setup issues. Many ukes CAN be improved if there are tuning problems, and bear in mind, even high end ukes can be shipped this way!
So, take care, and make sure you can ask or play if you possibly can - let us not forget, there was a time not that long ago where the internet didn't exist, and to buy a ukulele you had no choice but to go into a real shop or at least phone one!
Good luck!
Read More »
What is a PROPER ukulele shop
In a lot of advice I give on this blog, and on forums, I urge ukulele beginners buying their first ukulele to buy from a 'real and proper' shop. But what do I mean by that?
Firstly, like most things in the modern age, you can buy pretty much anything you like online. That means convenience and in many cases a price reduction. I can't argue with that. In addition, as we are in a ukulele boom, that means lots and lots of cheap instruments flooding the market from the Far East - THAT I have more concern with.
I know that at the present time, money is tight for many people, and naturally you (and I) will want to grab the very best bargain that they can. When buying a musical instrument though, I would urge some caution unless you know what you are doing or the risks.
At the cheaper end of the ukulele range, you are going to find a whole host of instruments that have been put together pretty shoddily. That isn't to say there are not some gems amongst them, or ukes that can be rescued, but generally speaking the majority will require a once over. So, you are sat at your PC without a music store nearby and you search around for the absolute cheapest uke you can find and click buy. When it arrives, unless you are extremely lucky you will find a uke that needs attention, perhaps a high action (or an action so low it buzzes) with cheap strings and perhaps some more serious issues. If that happens it means you bought from a box shipper like Amazon who simply take your order off the shelf unopened and ship it to you, or you bought from a terrible dealer. With a bit of digging around you CAN do better.
I would say at the outset to any new player - if you have the opportunity to buy your first uke from a real shop (i.e. a shop you can walk through the door to and have a play before you buy) then that is without a doubt the surest way you will avoid tears. Have a strum and look over every single inch of the instrument. Compare it to others in your price range and ask for advice. How do they sound to your ears? Which feels better? Spend some time with them. If you find one you like - great - now ask the salesman to give it a professional once over to check the intonation and the action. If he refuses, I'd avoid the shop as that is really poor service - its a quick job for an experienced tech and he should be happy you asked and to check. You might also see if he stocks better quality strings and ask pretty please if he will fit those too. By going that route you are likely to get some good results.
But back to the real world. Many of us don't live in cities with a music shop on every corner, and you may be finding travelling expensive so its natural to rely on the internet - I know I do. This is fine too though, so long as you try to avoid the faceless dealers who are not really instrument people, just warehouses selling boxes.
Most good music shops in your country will have their own website, or at the very least you can telephone them. Do you research beforehand and settle on a few ukes you like and start calling them. Don't just click the BUY button, actually call them and talk to them. Ask them for their opinion on your choice and listen to their views. If they are unhelpful, reject them. If you like what they say, make sure you ask them to give the uke a quick once over to check the same things as above, intonation and action before shipping. You might also want them to upgrade the strings, and Aquila strings are the obvious choice for the beginner with a cheap uke. Expect to pay for those strings (of course) but they should be happy to fit them in my opinion. Again, any store who says 'no' to a check on setup should be avoided. I've bought many this way, and you get to know the shops that give a damn and those that don't..
That isn't to say you shouldn't buy blind - either from that big wholesaler, or from sites like ebay where the seller can't warrant what they are offering - just make sure you ONLY do that if you know what you MAY be letting yourself into, and have people (like me!!) to turn to for advice if it arrives with setup issues. Many ukes CAN be improved if there are tuning problems, and bear in mind, even high end ukes can be shipped this way!
So, take care, and make sure you can ask or play if you possibly can - let us not forget, there was a time not that long ago where the internet didn't exist, and to buy a ukulele you had no choice but to go into a real shop or at least phone one!
Good luck!
13 Mar 2011
13 Mar 2011T10:53
What most beginners worry about is whether they are buying the right ukulele, or whether the uke they buy will be ok, be damaged etc. The simple fact is this, not everybody lives near to a shop with a huge range of ukuleles, and some people may struggle with travelling to a store - this is where the world of mail order and the internet comes in to play, but understandably, people worry about that.
My thoughts are provided below from your best options to worst. I fully appreciate you may be forced in to the worst category, but hope my tips help you out and ease any worries!
1. The BEST option
The best option is, understandably, to go to an actual store and choose a ukulele. By doing this, not only will you have chance to actually pick up and play the ukulele you want, but you will be able to compare the uke to other models and seek advice from the store owner. Pick it up, check it over for any flaws, and most importantly play it! If you haven't learned to play yet, just give it some strums, or better still, ask the shop owner to play it for you. How does it sound to your ears? Do you like the tone? How does it compare to other ukuleles in the store?
Importantly, if you have any concerns about the set up of the instrument, say so. If the uke is buzzing, cannot be tuned, or has problems with intonation you should either reject it, or ask the shop owner if he can adjust it to improve it. In my view a dealer who refuses to do this for you is not worth your money as these tweaks should be second nature to a good uke dealer. If there are any imperfections or scratches on the uke, point them out to the dealer and see if he has another in the storeroom (or maybe haggle for a slight discount!). Remember, this is your choice and don't be bullied into buying something you are not happy with.
2. The MIDDLE option
If, like me, you live nowhere near a ukulele shop, (in my case, the nearest store with a good range is 2 hours drive away) you may need to rely on mail order. If you are doing this, the middle ground is to go with a store you can trust. Use the internet to ask questions about the shop in question, search for reviews about them. Mail order that falls in the middle ground can only mean, in my opinion, a store you can call and actually discuss the ukulele in question. If the store is simply a sales team and a warehouse and dont have a clue what you are talking about, avoid them. A good private store with an owner who understands the instrument will be willing and keen to talk to you about the ukulele and give you recommendations. Ask the dealer on the telephone to ensure he looks over the models he has and sends you one with no flaws. Also, ask the dealer to give the ukulele a once over to ensure there are no issues with tuning, action, buzzing and the like. As I said above, a dealer who refuses to do this is not worth your money. You may also ask your dealer to put better strings on the instrument for you - again, whilst you should have to pay for the strings, a good store will fit them for you.
But having secured a good store, how can you know what the ukulele sounds like? Well you can't very easily and this is why this option is the middle ground. The internet is again the best resource for you. Read reviews of your chosen instrument, use YouTube to find videos of the uke in question being played and use internet forums to ask the question of what others think about the uke. Your dealer will also be able to offer advice. Tell him what you have to spend and what you are thinking of and ask him whether he thinks this is a good choice or not. Again - a warehouse sales team will not be able to answer this question for you but a REAL shop will.
When buying mail order, ask the dealer to sell you a case as well whilst you are at it, and ask him to ship the ukulele inside the case - this will provide added protection when the box is being thrown about by the courier!
I have bought most of my ukes this way.
3. The WORST option
Occasionally you get your heart set on a certain ukulele and you can only find it at the sort of mass market store where you will not be able to speak to somebody who understands the instrument. Amazon for example sell ukes, but you wont find anybody on their Customer Services team who can talk to you about the instrument, let alone set it up! Ebay is another option people choose. On Ebay, I am not talking about those real shops with an ebay presence (they fall in the category above as you can speak to them) but again the mass market dealers who sell instruments in their thousands.
The problem with this option is that the ukulele will be sat in a warehouse alongside hundreds of others that came from the factory. When you order one, a chap in the warehouse simply takes the box down, labels it and ships it. No checking of the instrument will take place, and therefore at the cheaper end of the uke scale, there is a good chance that the uke may have some flaws or need some setting up when you receive it. This method is also next to impossible to ensure the instrument is shipped inside a case.
I have ordered in this way when there was a certain uke I really wanted, but could not find a friendly store who stocked one. I did this though, happy in the knowledge that I know how to set an instrument up, and in my case the uke DID need work. If you are uncomfortable doing this, I would only recommend ordering this way if you know somebody who can do the set up for you.
I hope the above help you. There are of course variations on this theme - certainly if you are buying a premium instrument I would urge you to try to play it before spending hundreds. If you are looking at international shipping, consider whether there are any import taxes, and be happy that the instrument will be packed in bombproof packing to avoid a messy costly return. In fact, returns my mail order are a real pain, but you do have customer rights and dont be afraid to complain!
Read More »
Ukulele Beginners - How to buy a ukulele
Now before you laugh, this isn't as silly a question as it would appear. Of course, the simple answer to how to buy a ukulele is to go to a shop and buy one, but actually I get asked for advice on this subject an awful lot.
What most beginners worry about is whether they are buying the right ukulele, or whether the uke they buy will be ok, be damaged etc. The simple fact is this, not everybody lives near to a shop with a huge range of ukuleles, and some people may struggle with travelling to a store - this is where the world of mail order and the internet comes in to play, but understandably, people worry about that.
My thoughts are provided below from your best options to worst. I fully appreciate you may be forced in to the worst category, but hope my tips help you out and ease any worries!
1. The BEST option
The best option is, understandably, to go to an actual store and choose a ukulele. By doing this, not only will you have chance to actually pick up and play the ukulele you want, but you will be able to compare the uke to other models and seek advice from the store owner. Pick it up, check it over for any flaws, and most importantly play it! If you haven't learned to play yet, just give it some strums, or better still, ask the shop owner to play it for you. How does it sound to your ears? Do you like the tone? How does it compare to other ukuleles in the store?
Importantly, if you have any concerns about the set up of the instrument, say so. If the uke is buzzing, cannot be tuned, or has problems with intonation you should either reject it, or ask the shop owner if he can adjust it to improve it. In my view a dealer who refuses to do this for you is not worth your money as these tweaks should be second nature to a good uke dealer. If there are any imperfections or scratches on the uke, point them out to the dealer and see if he has another in the storeroom (or maybe haggle for a slight discount!). Remember, this is your choice and don't be bullied into buying something you are not happy with.
2. The MIDDLE option
If, like me, you live nowhere near a ukulele shop, (in my case, the nearest store with a good range is 2 hours drive away) you may need to rely on mail order. If you are doing this, the middle ground is to go with a store you can trust. Use the internet to ask questions about the shop in question, search for reviews about them. Mail order that falls in the middle ground can only mean, in my opinion, a store you can call and actually discuss the ukulele in question. If the store is simply a sales team and a warehouse and dont have a clue what you are talking about, avoid them. A good private store with an owner who understands the instrument will be willing and keen to talk to you about the ukulele and give you recommendations. Ask the dealer on the telephone to ensure he looks over the models he has and sends you one with no flaws. Also, ask the dealer to give the ukulele a once over to ensure there are no issues with tuning, action, buzzing and the like. As I said above, a dealer who refuses to do this is not worth your money. You may also ask your dealer to put better strings on the instrument for you - again, whilst you should have to pay for the strings, a good store will fit them for you.
But having secured a good store, how can you know what the ukulele sounds like? Well you can't very easily and this is why this option is the middle ground. The internet is again the best resource for you. Read reviews of your chosen instrument, use YouTube to find videos of the uke in question being played and use internet forums to ask the question of what others think about the uke. Your dealer will also be able to offer advice. Tell him what you have to spend and what you are thinking of and ask him whether he thinks this is a good choice or not. Again - a warehouse sales team will not be able to answer this question for you but a REAL shop will.
When buying mail order, ask the dealer to sell you a case as well whilst you are at it, and ask him to ship the ukulele inside the case - this will provide added protection when the box is being thrown about by the courier!
I have bought most of my ukes this way.
3. The WORST option
Occasionally you get your heart set on a certain ukulele and you can only find it at the sort of mass market store where you will not be able to speak to somebody who understands the instrument. Amazon for example sell ukes, but you wont find anybody on their Customer Services team who can talk to you about the instrument, let alone set it up! Ebay is another option people choose. On Ebay, I am not talking about those real shops with an ebay presence (they fall in the category above as you can speak to them) but again the mass market dealers who sell instruments in their thousands.
The problem with this option is that the ukulele will be sat in a warehouse alongside hundreds of others that came from the factory. When you order one, a chap in the warehouse simply takes the box down, labels it and ships it. No checking of the instrument will take place, and therefore at the cheaper end of the uke scale, there is a good chance that the uke may have some flaws or need some setting up when you receive it. This method is also next to impossible to ensure the instrument is shipped inside a case.
I have ordered in this way when there was a certain uke I really wanted, but could not find a friendly store who stocked one. I did this though, happy in the knowledge that I know how to set an instrument up, and in my case the uke DID need work. If you are uncomfortable doing this, I would only recommend ordering this way if you know somebody who can do the set up for you.
I hope the above help you. There are of course variations on this theme - certainly if you are buying a premium instrument I would urge you to try to play it before spending hundreds. If you are looking at international shipping, consider whether there are any import taxes, and be happy that the instrument will be packed in bombproof packing to avoid a messy costly return. In fact, returns my mail order are a real pain, but you do have customer rights and dont be afraid to complain!
16 Oct 2010
16 Oct 2010T16:10
This is a very common question and really, the answer depends on your personal circumstances. Even so, unless you are Mr Moneybags, there is little point in spending many hundreds on a first ukulele only to find you don't enjoy it.
At the other end of the scale, whilst it obviously seems tempting to spend as absolutely little as possible, as you are just testing the ukulele water, you should also be careful. As with guitars, if you purchase something so cheap that it is badly made, you will find the instrument working against you from the start. Learning a stringed instrument for the very first time does take some practice and time. Get a super cheap uke that is impossible to tune or has unplayably high action and you are just adding to the difficulty. In the worst case this could put you off forever, which would be a shame as you don't need to spend a lot to get a playable instrument.
Do a search on eBay and you will find a range of ukes in bright colours for anything from £10 to £20. My advice is don't. I've sampled ukes at this low end from the likes of Mahalo and Ashton and the plethora of new Chinese names and they are pretty shonky. I'm not just talking about finish, they can be badly (even fatally badly) put together making good setup nigh on impossible.
As cheap as I would go would be about £35-£40 for the makala ukuleles, particularly the dolphin that I have reviewed on this site. The dolphin is a remarkable uke, which when fitted with Aquila strings is remarkably loud, accurate and good sounding. Avoid trying to shop around at this price to save a couple of quid from a random eBay seller- dolphins need a bit of set up to work well so buy from a store who will set up for you. Highly Strung in Wantage will do this and they are also on the web. In the US places like Mims ukes will give you a setup. Ideally avoid Amazon!!
Moving up into the £50 to £80 range and you are still looking at makala as a great choice. Entry level Kalas appear and also great brands like Baton Rouge.
As you rise above the £80 mark you start to find better ukes from Kala and Ohana appear in your price point. Very good ukes, made in the far east.
Up to this point we are really only talking about laminate ukes only. These are not as sweet sounding as solid wood ukes, but for a beginner they are just fine. In fact, I'd rather a good laminate than a bad solid wood instrument.
About the cheapest quality solid wood ukes are probably the entry models from Bruko. These are (amazingly) handmade in Germany and start at around £100.
If you intend to start ukulele above the £100 mark, things get complicated as the range becomes huge. Sadly there are still plenty of bad eggs so how do you know where to go? Well if you are paying this much, I would definitely try to play before you buy to check intonation etc. If that's not possible, you need to try to play it safe.
About as safe as you can get is to buy a Flea uke. They are, due to their construction, pretty much guaranteed to be set up well and they sound great leaving you no worries and free to start learning. Ohanas and Kalas in this range are good ukes too, but I don't think they are likely to be as consistent as Fleas. Fleas can be found for around £130 ish. I understand that many dont like the look of Fleas though.
If you can push on towards £200 mark I would, without any doubt urge you to look at a Mainland uke. They are widely considered to be about the best value all solid instruments around and they sound superb. Set up is always spot on and they look great too! You can probably find a starter Mainland in the £200 mark
Beyond that you are on your own! Choose carefully, avoid bargain basement and read the ukulele forums thoroughly. They are full of friendly types happy to help.
For more information, I have expanded on this post HERE
Good luck!
Read More »
Ukulele beginners tips - How much should I spend on a ukulele?
Okay, you are saying, you have convinced me, I'm going to give ukulele a try, but how much do I need to spend?
This is a very common question and really, the answer depends on your personal circumstances. Even so, unless you are Mr Moneybags, there is little point in spending many hundreds on a first ukulele only to find you don't enjoy it.
At the other end of the scale, whilst it obviously seems tempting to spend as absolutely little as possible, as you are just testing the ukulele water, you should also be careful. As with guitars, if you purchase something so cheap that it is badly made, you will find the instrument working against you from the start. Learning a stringed instrument for the very first time does take some practice and time. Get a super cheap uke that is impossible to tune or has unplayably high action and you are just adding to the difficulty. In the worst case this could put you off forever, which would be a shame as you don't need to spend a lot to get a playable instrument.
Do a search on eBay and you will find a range of ukes in bright colours for anything from £10 to £20. My advice is don't. I've sampled ukes at this low end from the likes of Mahalo and Ashton and the plethora of new Chinese names and they are pretty shonky. I'm not just talking about finish, they can be badly (even fatally badly) put together making good setup nigh on impossible.
As cheap as I would go would be about £35-£40 for the makala ukuleles, particularly the dolphin that I have reviewed on this site. The dolphin is a remarkable uke, which when fitted with Aquila strings is remarkably loud, accurate and good sounding. Avoid trying to shop around at this price to save a couple of quid from a random eBay seller- dolphins need a bit of set up to work well so buy from a store who will set up for you. Highly Strung in Wantage will do this and they are also on the web. In the US places like Mims ukes will give you a setup. Ideally avoid Amazon!!
Moving up into the £50 to £80 range and you are still looking at makala as a great choice. Entry level Kalas appear and also great brands like Baton Rouge.
As you rise above the £80 mark you start to find better ukes from Kala and Ohana appear in your price point. Very good ukes, made in the far east.
Up to this point we are really only talking about laminate ukes only. These are not as sweet sounding as solid wood ukes, but for a beginner they are just fine. In fact, I'd rather a good laminate than a bad solid wood instrument.
About the cheapest quality solid wood ukes are probably the entry models from Bruko. These are (amazingly) handmade in Germany and start at around £100.
If you intend to start ukulele above the £100 mark, things get complicated as the range becomes huge. Sadly there are still plenty of bad eggs so how do you know where to go? Well if you are paying this much, I would definitely try to play before you buy to check intonation etc. If that's not possible, you need to try to play it safe.
About as safe as you can get is to buy a Flea uke. They are, due to their construction, pretty much guaranteed to be set up well and they sound great leaving you no worries and free to start learning. Ohanas and Kalas in this range are good ukes too, but I don't think they are likely to be as consistent as Fleas. Fleas can be found for around £130 ish. I understand that many dont like the look of Fleas though.
If you can push on towards £200 mark I would, without any doubt urge you to look at a Mainland uke. They are widely considered to be about the best value all solid instruments around and they sound superb. Set up is always spot on and they look great too! You can probably find a starter Mainland in the £200 mark
Beyond that you are on your own! Choose carefully, avoid bargain basement and read the ukulele forums thoroughly. They are full of friendly types happy to help.
For more information, I have expanded on this post HERE
Good luck!
20 Apr 2010
20 Apr 2010T10:01
** IMPORTANT NOTE! This is a VERY old post. Things have changed. And things are constantly changing. It was written before I was writing regular reviews. I thought about updating it, but I'd be updating it every year.
Generally speaking, buying a uke is like buying any musical instrument. Go too cheap and you will end up with something that may hinder your learning and put you off, not a good thing!
I appreciate however that not everyone has lots of cash, and certainly not cash to blow on something they are not sure of. Heck, ukes can cost more than £500 but how low can you go?
A quick search of eBay will show a variety of brightly coloured ukes in the £15 - £20 range. Do beware. I bought one of these and it really is pretty ropey.
Step up a level into the £30 £50 range, and you are in to the level that I would recommend for beginners who really can't spend much. Look for Makala ukes for example ( including the brilliant Dolphin series), or others from Makala. Bear in mind that these entry ukes won't be solid, and will definitely benefit from changing strings to aquilas ( so budget another £6 ). They may also need a tweak to set up such as slight lowering of action. This will be a breeze if you are a guitar nut, but complete newbies need to take care, take advice or possibly pay a luthier.
Moving up into the £50 - £100 bracket and you start to get more improvements in quality, and some solid woods. This is though the category to take care with. We are getting into more serious money, and sadly there are more bad ukes here that shouldn't in my view command higher prices. In my view look for Kala, lanikai, ohana and Baton Rouge. If you can reach 100, check out entry level Bruko. Great all solid handmade ukes! All ukes in this range may still need action checking and may benefit from better strings.
Up a step again into the £100 - £200 category and your choice widens considerably. I think this is the range where you really can get ALL the uke you need without going boutique / pro. All of my upper end ukes are in this range. Wooden ukes will tend to be all solid in this range, and whilst still made in Asia probably finished in USA, such as brilliant Mainlands. Very nice Kala and Ohana ukes in this range too as well as the standard model Fleas and Flukes ( everyone should own one! USA made)
Higher still and it's a case if 'where do you stop'. You are looking at upgraded versions of the above in fancy woods, or with pickups fitted, or into beautiful hand made Hawaiian instruments!
So, what did I do in the early days? Simple!
Mahalo - horrible horrible, sub 20- junk waste of money
Vintage - £20 - kinda junk, works, 'sort of'...
Lanikai - £50 - nice sound, stayed in tune, well set up.... Sold to fund...
Flea £120 - brilliant and unique, can't really go wrong
Bruko £100 - solid wood
Mainland £160 - concert scale, solid, beautiful, bought to compliment Flea with warmer tone and longer scale neck.
Beyond that I ended up with about 60 ukuleles at one point!
Hope this helps if you are confused. Email me if you have any questions. Above all, select a couple of models, research them ( ukulele underground site forum is your friend here) and try if you can to play them ( saying that, I never have myself!)
Good luck! Go buy one, you know you wanna!
Read More »
Ukulele Beginners - What to spend? How cheap is cheap
** IMPORTANT NOTE! This is a VERY old post. Things have changed. And things are constantly changing. It was written before I was writing regular reviews. I thought about updating it, but I'd be updating it every year.
Instead - I would recommend looking at the full review list which is organised into price categories.. Anything scored over 8 out of 10 is recommended one way or the other. Higher the score the better
FULL REVIEW LIST! https://www.gotaukulele.com/p/ukulele-reviews.html
A common question this one, and I was here 2 years ago myself. Thought i'd share my experiences.
Generally speaking, buying a uke is like buying any musical instrument. Go too cheap and you will end up with something that may hinder your learning and put you off, not a good thing!
I appreciate however that not everyone has lots of cash, and certainly not cash to blow on something they are not sure of. Heck, ukes can cost more than £500 but how low can you go?
A quick search of eBay will show a variety of brightly coloured ukes in the £15 - £20 range. Do beware. I bought one of these and it really is pretty ropey.
Step up a level into the £30 £50 range, and you are in to the level that I would recommend for beginners who really can't spend much. Look for Makala ukes for example ( including the brilliant Dolphin series), or others from Makala. Bear in mind that these entry ukes won't be solid, and will definitely benefit from changing strings to aquilas ( so budget another £6 ). They may also need a tweak to set up such as slight lowering of action. This will be a breeze if you are a guitar nut, but complete newbies need to take care, take advice or possibly pay a luthier.
Moving up into the £50 - £100 bracket and you start to get more improvements in quality, and some solid woods. This is though the category to take care with. We are getting into more serious money, and sadly there are more bad ukes here that shouldn't in my view command higher prices. In my view look for Kala, lanikai, ohana and Baton Rouge. If you can reach 100, check out entry level Bruko. Great all solid handmade ukes! All ukes in this range may still need action checking and may benefit from better strings.
Up a step again into the £100 - £200 category and your choice widens considerably. I think this is the range where you really can get ALL the uke you need without going boutique / pro. All of my upper end ukes are in this range. Wooden ukes will tend to be all solid in this range, and whilst still made in Asia probably finished in USA, such as brilliant Mainlands. Very nice Kala and Ohana ukes in this range too as well as the standard model Fleas and Flukes ( everyone should own one! USA made)
Higher still and it's a case if 'where do you stop'. You are looking at upgraded versions of the above in fancy woods, or with pickups fitted, or into beautiful hand made Hawaiian instruments!
So, what did I do in the early days? Simple!
Mahalo - horrible horrible, sub 20- junk waste of money
Vintage - £20 - kinda junk, works, 'sort of'...
Lanikai - £50 - nice sound, stayed in tune, well set up.... Sold to fund...
Flea £120 - brilliant and unique, can't really go wrong
Bruko £100 - solid wood
Mainland £160 - concert scale, solid, beautiful, bought to compliment Flea with warmer tone and longer scale neck.
Beyond that I ended up with about 60 ukuleles at one point!
Hope this helps if you are confused. Email me if you have any questions. Above all, select a couple of models, research them ( ukulele underground site forum is your friend here) and try if you can to play them ( saying that, I never have myself!)
Good luck! Go buy one, you know you wanna!
14 Apr 2010
14 Apr 2010T22:29
If you are new to stringed instruments in this family, and are looking to buy a uke, you may notice listings making reference to "solid" wood, "solid tops", "all solid" and the like - but are people who are new to the instrument clear on what is being sold here? - worse still is there some misrepresentation going on?
The other thing is of course price, as all solid instruments cost a good deal more than laminates - and I fully appreciate that we all have to cut our cloth accordingly, and and for some, a laminate may be the only option (I am not knocking laminates - I own some!!)
But what really concerns me is where ukes are advertised, a(nd I have to say, ebay is mainly the culprit), where the description of the woods is less than clear.
I recently saw a baritone uke for sale on ebay at what was an inflated price compared to what it could be bought for in a store, but worse still, the seller had it listed as a solid mahogany wood uke, despite it clearly being a laminate top and body model. I was so annoyed that I emailed the buyer to point out that his listing was incorrect, and he replied saying it was a laminate of sheets of mahogany, and therefore it was all mahogany, and therefore solid mahogany...... !!!!? The item sold, - total rip-off.
Therefore - do take care - if you see a bargain uke at anything under £100 - £150 claiming to be all solid wood I would exercise some caution (not rule it out totally, just be cautious)
Read More »
Ukulele beginners tips - When is wood, you know, SOLID??
Something has been bothering me for quite a while - in fact in all the time I have been buying guitars, let alone ukuleles, and that something didn't change when I bought my first uke. In fact I just saw that the confusion (and the potential rip-off) continue.
If you are new to stringed instruments in this family, and are looking to buy a uke, you may notice listings making reference to "solid" wood, "solid tops", "all solid" and the like - but are people who are new to the instrument clear on what is being sold here? - worse still is there some misrepresentation going on?
The basics of wooden ukes ( as with wooden acoustic guitars) is this - the wood that makes the instrument is either an actual thin slice of solid wood, or it is a laminate of lots and lots of thin pieces of wood with a nice looking veneer on the outer visible edge. This applies to the wood on the soundboard or top (the piece with the hole in it!) , the sides of the body, and the back.
The general difference in most wooden instruments is that a solid piece of wood is by far the best, and laminate is worst. I say general, as this is also dependent on the type of wood and type of instrument, but for the purposes of a general buyers guide, it is generally accepted that top quality is "all solid top, back and sides", medium is "solid top" and the cheaper end is "laminate all over".
The other thing is of course price, as all solid instruments cost a good deal more than laminates - and I fully appreciate that we all have to cut our cloth accordingly, and and for some, a laminate may be the only option (I am not knocking laminates - I own some!!)
But what really concerns me is where ukes are advertised, a(nd I have to say, ebay is mainly the culprit), where the description of the woods is less than clear.
I recently saw a baritone uke for sale on ebay at what was an inflated price compared to what it could be bought for in a store, but worse still, the seller had it listed as a solid mahogany wood uke, despite it clearly being a laminate top and body model. I was so annoyed that I emailed the buyer to point out that his listing was incorrect, and he replied saying it was a laminate of sheets of mahogany, and therefore it was all mahogany, and therefore solid mahogany...... !!!!? The item sold, - total rip-off.
But the manufacturer websites don't help either - and nothing annoys me more than those that don't say whether the instruments are solid or not. Many do it, and I don't understand why.
I stress again, buying an instrument that isn't totally solid is NOT a bad thing, but you should be clear what you are buying, whatever you buy - surely?
I stress again, buying an instrument that isn't totally solid is NOT a bad thing, but you should be clear what you are buying, whatever you buy - surely?
Therefore - do take care - if you see a bargain uke at anything under £100 - £150 claiming to be all solid wood I would exercise some caution (not rule it out totally, just be cautious)
I am often asked how to tell if the instrument is solid if you get to actually hold it - it isn't totally straightforward, but some tips:
- On a solid top instrument, you should be able to look at the edge of the inside of the soundhole and see whether the grains on outer edge run "through" the wood. Imagine looking end on at a thick piece of wood such as a skirting board - the grain would run through - it is no different on a guitar top - just thinner! On a cheap laminate, you should be able to see the laminated layers of wood. Things get tricky if the top or inside of soundhole is painted . This is sometimes a case of the maker trying to hide the laminate, but not always! - Bruko put a binding on the inside of their sound holes (but then again, to be fair to Bruko, they advertise their instruments as all solid woods, and they are not lying - great solid Ukes!)
- For the back and sides - if you can see the outer grain through varnish - look inside the instrument with a torch - do the grains on the inside match the patterns on the outside - if they do - a pretty good sign it is solid back or sides. The very cheapest laminated backs and sides have grains going in opposite directions!
Anyway - rant over, but I do get annoyed at limited information for new buyers - always remember, buyer beware, and if a deal seems too good to be true, it "probably" is...
Subscribe to:
Posts
(
Atom
)
